Do a rough measurement and just ask for a quote
Very easy to bend into shapes by hand

We'll talk to you before we supply you with anything and our advice costs nothing. Our solutions are not expensive although they do use high tech. materials. A proper solution often doesn't cost much more than using the 'fix-all' products on sale in many places.
If you want samples, we'll send you some

To give some idea, on a typical car, you might spend around £200 if you insulated all the way along the exhaust, including some areas of engine bay. If you just did the floorpan, you might spend around £120. If you just did a few pipes in the engine bay, perhaps £70.

Do a rough measurement and just ask for a quote

Exhaust heat shielding for panels - (stop shoes melting)
Keeping air cool in the engine bay
Protecting wiring under bonnet
Reducing heat from gearbox tunnel
Reducing heat from exhaust tunnel
Preventing body/paint damage from heat
Preventing damage to steering / suspension
Have you wrapped your exhaust ?
Preventing damage to boot wells

Radiant heat
vs.
Conducted heat

Reflecting heat
vs.
Insulating things

Yes, believe it or not early on in our problems was someone with an Austin Healey, whose wife's shoes melted a bit because of the exhaust heat rising into the passenger floorpan.

The solution with this sort of problem is to put some of our Nimbus GII heat shield between the exhaust and the floorpan. You can also put some flat insulation foam between the floorpan and the carpet inside the car. For completeness, you may like to install Nimbus GII heat shield between the exhaust and bulkhead. Plus some Kevlar matting around the gearbox tunnel.

Exhaust / turbo heat in the engine bay can directly heat up air intake pipes and components. The direct heat can be substantial and may cause performance problems or damage.

You can protect areas and components easily from direct heat by building heat shields from our Nimbus GII heat shield.

However, the heat is still in the engine bay, so you could consider sealing off air intake areas by building a box around them. The Nimbus is very easy to bend, cut and shape, giving an easy alternative to building boxes out of sheet metal. At the same time it will reflect heat much better than sheet metal and weigh less as well. The Kevlar matting may be useful to pad the edges of the Nimbus where it fits closely to components that might be damaged by chafing from the metal edge.

Hot components such as exhausts close to wiring can cause obvious damage, or over time the wiring becomes brittle. Most modern wiring plastics are made to withstand normal engine bay temperatures, BUT NOT DIRECT RADIANT HEAT, such as that produced by exhausts. Often in performance engines, heat levels are higher than in production cars.

Wiring can be protected from direct heat by a basic shield and/or it can also be wrapped in insulating material with a reflective surface. However, if wrapping the wire itself, you have to be sure that the wiring will not generate its own internal heat from the electric current. If heavily insulated, this heat can't escape and the wiring may damage itself.

Sometimes gearboxes themselves create a lot of heat which gets conducted through the gearbox tunnel floor into the car. Also heat can easily flow back from the engine bay along the tunnel.

Often it is enough just to put a layer of insulating mat inbetween the carpet and the gearbox tunnel and this cuts out most of the heat. Before you use any glass fibre matting, please see our Technical note about the insulation of panels, as many products are not really suitable and a proper product may well cost less and work better. We normally use our Kevlar blended matting for this purpose as it forms around bends and tucks easily into corners. In more extreme circumstances, you may need a metal heat shield under the tunnel.

If you've got an exhaust tunnel running under the car, then its a trap for hot air. This can mean a lot of heat getting into the floor panels and then transmitting into your car.

Its usually not enough to put some insulation mat under the carpet, so we reccommend bonding some Nimbus heat shield to the underside of the exhaust tunnel. Because the space is tight, its not usually possible to leave an air gap between the shield and the floor. This in itself will reduce the heat in the car dramatically, but you can of course also add some insulation matting around the tunnel on the inside of the car.

Exhaust heat can damage paintwork eg. near rear bumpers or lower bodywork.
This is easily fixed with a small sheet of heat shield.

There are various places within the engine bay where exhausts can heat things up which really need to stay cool. In particular, some modified cars will have exhausts running near suspension and steering, which will heat up components such as rubber gaitors, power steering fluid, the joints themselves...the list goes on.

Small pieces of heat shield are easy to shape and mount to protect any of these areas.

If you have wrapped your exhaust to get extra performance and to cool the engine bay, the heat in the rest of the exhaust will rise dramatically. This means you could end up with more heat getting into the car from the exhaust run underneath it. Plus you might find the extra heat may damage areas which previously were OK.

The solutions are the same as for 'normal' exhaust heat protection under the car.

Some boots contain heat sensitive components eg. fuel tanks, fuel pumps etc. If your exhaust runs close underneath, you may need to protect these.

Its a simple job to put some heat shield above the exhaust on the underside of the boot well. If more heat needs to be kept out, you can insulate the panels inside as well.